Abstract:
The knitwear garment factories earned nearly fifty five percent of total textile industry earning in the 2021-22 fiscal year. Total apparel export earnings were $42.6 billion in the 2021-22 fiscal year and knitwear sector export earning was $23.2 billion in 2021-22 fiscal year according to Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data. A typical knitwear operation involves knitting of fabric and the making of knitwear using the fabric thus knitted and provides the greater backward linkage to meet up export requirements. While circular knitting machine is the primary machinery used in weft knitting (i.e., intermeshing the loops of yarns in horizontal way) there are technological challenges like low longevity of machine, variation of RPM, low production rate, and distorted stitches. Combining these with faults like patta, yarn contamination, yarn missing in fabric, oil and dirt spots, sinker mark, horizontal stripe and piling on fabric put the knitting section operation a challenging one and machine parameters like stitch length, machine RPM, machine production rate, man per machine, gauge, yarn count, cam arrangement, coarse length, stitch density, GSM, bursting strength, and diameter are so important for fabric production.This research reviews the barriers and parameters in adopting sustainable management practices in the context of the Bangladeshi weft knitting industry. A questionnaire survey was conducted having a sample size of fifteen. It was undertaken to identify the barriers and parameters. Then Fuzzy Delphi method was used to prioritize barriers and parameters for sustainable management of weft knitting operation. Thirty one barriers and twenty two parameters was identified through literature review and survey. The research indicates that lack of skilled manpower is the most influential barriers and research and development is most prioritized parameter. A hierarchical cluster analysis technique was used in the detailed analysis of this data. Four clusters were found for both barriers and parameters through hierarchical cluster analysis. A holistic positive and negative impact was derived among all barriers and parameters by fuzzy cognitive maps. This study will provide valuables insights to practitioners and relevant policy makersabout the barriers and parameters prevailing in the emerging weft knitting industry for sustainable management of weft knitting operation. This will guide to undertake appropriate steps for alleviating those barriers and influencing parameter. The outcome of this research will guide all the involved personnel in weft knitting section to create a better sustainable management in knitting operation.
